Svar till: Nervös inför Disco 4 köp – någon som vill ge mig några råd på vägen?

Forum TEKNIK Discovery Discovery 4 (2009-2016) Nervös inför Disco 4 köp – någon som vill ge mig några råd på vägen? Svar till: Nervös inför Disco 4 köp – någon som vill ge mig några råd på vägen?

Staffan EldStaffan Eld

Klart du ska köpa en disco 4.
Här är några tips i från ett engelskt forum på facebook Discovery 3/4 owners club som du kanske skulle bli medlem i.
Lite att tänka på men dom flesta av oss älskar våra bilar. Denna texten är inriktad till disco III men gäller i många drag även disco IIII

What to look for when buying a D3, and what are the common faults / things to consider. Here are the most common:

1) HSE is the ’top’ model with most options fitted as standard. Other models are capable, and should not be ignored – you might not need or want all the toys, and paying a premium for them might be a waste. Special run-out editions of the D4 were rolled out in Graphite (similar to HSE), Landmark (similar to HSE Luxury).

2) Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3’s with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines.

3) Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital – these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good ’tell tale’ for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign.

4) These are heavy vehicles – suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings – you want Timken / OEM – nothing else will do.

5) Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear.

6) The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned.

7) The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version.

8 ) Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message ”special programs not available” appearing temporarily after starting up. When the alternator goes, it does so rapidly and with smoke and if not disconnected quickly will also kill the battery.

9) Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts, though it’s still an expensive job (circa £600 at an independent).

10) Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable on the 2.7 engine. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner (part of the oil pump casting) snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened in this area.

11) Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you’ll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil.

12) Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying – it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row?

13) The electronic parking brake can fail, and it’s expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin – a wire loop that is accessed from under the trim below the handbrake release switch.

14) A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it’s worth asking for experiences of members of this group.

15) an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn’t offer as many features.

16) A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a ’fuel burning heater’ and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater.

17) There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) – if you don’t have a strange looking ’loop’ arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover.

18) The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off – replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it!

19) Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix.

20) The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle – awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening. Not expensive to fix, but awkward as hell.

21) Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing – an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life. New torque converter usually runs to about £1200 at an independent.

22a) There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings. It is commonly believed that oil changes more frequently than recommended with a high quality fully synthetic oil, plus good quality fuel that creates less soot, can reduce the chances of this happening.

22b) There have been reported instances of cranks failing catastrophically and physically breaking into two parts in both D3 and D4 running the TDV6 and SDV6 diesel engines. There have been reports of this happening at low mileage (40,000) and high mileage (160,000+). There is no consensus on what causes this to happen.

23) The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly. Access is through the left side front wheel arch once the plastics are removed.

24) The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging. It’s on the top of the engine, under the plastic cover, pretty much in the middle.

25) The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace with the lower clip accessible through a panel in the right side wheel arch, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age.

26) There are usually one or two D3’s for sale by members of this group. They won’t be the cheapest available, but they are likely to be amongst the most ’honest’ with declared issues.

27) Road tax is cheaper on older D3’s – that said, don’t let this put you off newer models – the difference isn’t large enough to use it as a buying decision. Keep in mind that the newest of the low road tax D3’s is now ten years old. Newer D4’s have lower tax rates.

28) Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not ’green’ vehicles – and that’s not why you’re buying it!

29) Don’t let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you’re doing if you want to minimise the costs – rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief.

30) The centre console Fridge was thought to be standard on HSE’s in 2007 but not necessarily present in 2008 onwards. They can be retrofitted 🙂

31) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail – most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive. Symptoms are blowing noises, smells, and lack of power.

32) The fuel injectors can’t be serviced, and they’re roughly £200 each just for the part – keep in mind you have 6 of them! It’s worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape.

33) The glow plugs can fail – symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting. If you do embark on having them replaced, use a specialist in these engines with a vibrating torque wrench designed to remove glow plugs.

34) The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour. Autoglym also make some good stuff for this.

35) The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement. This shows itself as icy streaks when you defrost in the winter.

36) The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don’t wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up.

37) Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar.

38) Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant.

39) Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix.

40) Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger, others have used strimmer wire.

41) The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world!

42) Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem.

43) It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware.

44) Older D3’s, without the 4×4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee.

45) Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover’s Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered.

46) The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121.

47) Please don’t ask about adding two stroke oil to the fuel, terra clean or similar. The short version is that there is no consensus on whether these are good / bad / indifferent, and threads on these subjects usually turn into eulogies and bun fights in equal measure 🙂 Do your own research, and make your own judgement call on these subjects.

48) It’s OK if you want to use your D3 to tow a horse box, cross fields, mountains or rivers, and get it caked in mud, and equally OK if you want it to be showroom perfect, waxed up, big wheels, and as adventurous as it gets is going to Tesco. Fit whatever wheels you like to it, and upgrade it to D4 styling if you wish. Everyone welcome here. We won’t judge you, but we might offer opinions 🙂

49) The navigation disc is in a drive under the passenger seat, behind a cover. It can be updated to newer mapping data, and using eBay or searching via Google is the most cost effective way to get a newer disc.

50) Fuel leaking out when you’ve brimmed the tank ? Probably rodent damage to the breather plastics on the top of the tank. For unknown reasons, they get chewed away on the same 90 degree bend. A big job (new fuel tank and over a grand) at a main dealer, though some have repaired with ”tiger seal” and other DIY fixes to good effect.

51) The inlet manifolds in the 3.0 TDV6 are made of plastic, and are known to become brittle and crack / leak. There are two of them on the engine, and when one goes, the other usually isn’t far behind. Can be expensive to repair at a main dealers (£1,000+) and not unusual for parts to be on back order. Beware engine warning lights on D4’s as they can commonly point to this fault.

Despite all of the above, almost all of us love our D3’s and D4’s and wouldn’t want anything else. Don’t have nightmares, do sleep well 🙂

Staffan Eld

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