Merry Christmas everyone,
Advice please as my Defender 90 TD5 2002 is driving me nuts. Today I went for a drive and she was running fine, all of a sudden it started running rough and losing power, chugging like a tracktor. I stopped, took of the ECU plug, which was oily (See previous post, waiting for injector loom). I managed to start it, and get home but really low power and miss fireing, especially over 2500rpm.
At home, I unpluged the ECU and the plug at the injector loom, cleaned them with loads of brake cleaner. Still missfining, I swaped out the ECU as I have a spare, same problem. I ran the Hawkeye diagnostics no reported issues. I test fired the Injectors all clicking and relay functioning.
I did have an issue with noiuse from the fuel pump being noisey a few weeks back, but that stopped. I tried purging the fuel pump with the self purge and noticed I cant hear any pump noise. But I find this confusing as how would it start at all if the pump was gone. This is really frustrating as its my daily drive. I am thinking I swapping the fuel pump out as luckly I ordered one before the blockage of the UK. If I do swap it out I will be cutting the floor panel as dropping the tank on the drive in -8 is not my idea of Christmas...
Any suggestions or recommendations, please. Getting a bit desprate here.
All the Best Michalel
Hej...
Soppapumpar som börjar va dåliga kan va luriga...
Kan gå ibland... Och ibland inte...
Så kan nog va ide att kolla upp pumpen!!
Hello Michael,
I had similar issues with my td5 after I bought it. I cleaned the oil out of the ecu connector and even replaced the injector loom. I felt that this had solved the problem but then it returned.
I thought about replacing the fuel pump like you are talking about but opted for the simple/ cheap things first.
I replaced the fuel filter and the car ran perfectly for about a week until the problem returned. If felt like a misfire.
I replaced the fuel filter again and haven't had that problem since. Now I make sure to replace the fuel filter every time I change the oil.
I hope this helps you.
Br
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Its reasuring to know I am not alone, thank you. I purchased the Landy in October, (200,000k) and have done a full 100k service, inluding filters. Around 205,000km I started getting a really loud noise from the fuel pump, after I degreased the engine. I changed the fuel filer again, with no effect. The nose seemed to be from air being sucked in around the fuel regulator, I guessed due to drying the gasket when I degreased. Some WD 40 and the noise stopped immediatly and never came back. I am using MANN filters.
I just took the cover off the ECU, dry as a bone, no oil. I really hate reliability faults like this, so I plan to order a new Engine loom. I was also just trawling the internet and wonder if it could be the high pressure side of the fuel pump, as the motor runs roughly but only at low RPM, it will not accelerate as before. I do have a new fuel air bleed valve, I can fit and will change fuel filter again at same time, nothing to lose. The only thing I do know for sure is I have oil coming out the red connector for the ECU.
all the Best Michael
Yes I am starting to lean to the idea of the fuel pump, when it does start it makes the same noise as when you have changed the fuel fileter and is strugling for fuel. I will change the filer and the fuel return valve first as I have them, but it does look like the pump. Not looking forward to cutting a hole in the floor, but looks easier than dropping the tank....
Thanks for the advice.
Have you checked your crankshaft sensor - could give that kind of problems if lose or "kaputt"
Hi Anders,
Never thought of that one, will check it thanks.
All the Best Michael
Hi,
have you changed the injector loom? (under the head cover) It's typical for missfiring.
Hi Per,
I have one on order from Padock, but its stuck in the post. It absolutly needs changing as I am getting oil in the ECU plug. I also plan to change out the engine loom as I hate electrical reliability problems.
I have had a bad oil leak at the back near side of the Engine for weeks now, I am having a feeling after taking the air inlet hose off that the oil is messing with the electrics. I had a feeling it was the cam cover leaking, but its clean. This are not the best conditions to be working outside for sure...
Alll the Best Michael
Hi Anders,
I took the air intake off and checked the sensor, its not lose. When I check the ideal speed error while the engine is running it is jumping between -3 and +532 RPM, but I am not sure this is just the normal pulse from the sensor as it generates and AC single for the ECU apparently.
I have ordered a new sensor as I have no choice but to just keep chaning stuff out until the problem is fixed...
All the Best Michael
Hi Per,
I have had a bad oil leak at the back near side of the Engine for weeks now, I am having a feeling after taking the air inlet hose off that the oil is messing with the electrics. I had a feeling it was the cam cover leaking, but its clean. This are not the best conditions to be working outside for sure…
Alll the Best Michael
LHD?
Yes LHD, I brought it in Sweden in Oct.
So I may have found the source or at least a source to the problem. After trawling the internet for a couple of hours I found this on turbo sticking waste gate. https://youtu.be/YXhd2f11ZRk So I checked mine and sure enough it was jammed solid and open. I managed to free it up some, with WD40 and mole grips, but I have run out of day light and motivation to work in the rain... But it is running a little better, so will follow the instructions in the video. Fingers crossed this will do the trick.
Thanks for all the useful suggestions, if nothing else I am learning a lot : )
Med Hilsen Michael
Yes LHD, I brought it in Sweden in Oct.
Just wondered wich side is near side, haha, you know we swedes are not so familiar with near side and off side.
Hi Michael,
If you can read boost pressure with you diagnostic device a normal value at 2000-3000 revs at WOT should be 1,1 - 1,2 bar.
