I am going for a Swedish theme with the yellow and blue pipes : ) To be honest I spend so much time under the hood I thought I would liven it up a bit.
Yes I also blank my ERG, didnt like the idea of dumping exhaust into the clean side of the engine.
So as an update the turbo work continues.. Slowly
Best Regards Michael
P.S, Its not a Covid vaccination as my wife asked.,
My EGR is gone since long, so far no issues with "besiktningen", I also run straight pipes from the engine. 🙂
Hi Henrik,
That sounds promising 🙂
I will wait with the my engine mods - start just enjoy our car as it is to begin with...
...one step at a time.
Looking forward to next meeting...
Have a great day !!!
Hi Henrik,
Learnt two big lessons today, leave one end of drain pipe lose while fitting the other end, otherwise it does not line up and the importance of lining up the body of the turbo with the actuator and pipes. Had to loosen the bolts and rotate the actuator to get it to operate correctly. See photo below the lines show how far out it was, so the actuator was binding. But she started, with no oil leaks, so far. Next is fitting the coolant hoses, 160km test run then dump all the oil and filters again. Its getting expensive.
Have a nice Day
Finally the end of a very long story... Learnt a lot, made some mistake but got there in the end.
Test run tomorrow, then change oil and filters again after 160kms.
Hi Michael,
looks nice and I´m sure it will run fine!
As usual we are mainly interested in your mistakes.......to learn! 🙂
- all advice are welcome!
The blue hose from the rocker cover, where did you buy that?
I know Skåne is far away from Kramfors, but if you ever head south to visit wonderful Skåne or going to Germany, Poland or Bornholm you will likely pass my house and then the beer is waiting!
Hi Henrik,
I am just waiting for some steering parts tomorrow, then I will take her for a test drive. Its a bit worrying having done so many jobs at the same time, something has to leak or fall off.
The breather pipe is from Allisport https://www.allisport.com/shop/performance-products/hose-kits/engine-breather-hoses/discovery-td5-engine-breather-hose-blue/ However, LMR SE do a lot of stuff, so you may well find something that would do the job, https://www.l-m-r.se/m/do88.html
I know exactly how far you are from me, as I brought my Landy near Lund, went down on my motor bike, then put it on a trailer and drove back, it was a long drive...
May be I will take a tour over to UK next year, spare parts trip : ) Will look you up.
Now to try and get the drop arm off the steering box.
Cheers Michael
Hi Henrik,
So the last post on this turbo story. Test drive went well. Much better pick up. After checking the old turbo I think it was on its last legs.
All the Best Michael
So I finally jumped on to it.......but should have stuck to my basics and don´t repair anything that isn´t really broken!
Never the less as always with old stuff it´s a mess to loosen all nuts and bolts, take forever and all bolts seems to have been supplied with round heads from the beginning.
Realized that the oil return didn´t look at all as the version Michael showed previously in this thread, most likely changed at some point, no way to replace.......
Hoped that that was the big hurdle......but no......
When most things finally are assembled I realize that the banjo bolt on the oil feed doesn´t fit.....or reach, it´s short by a few millimeter......Shit again!
Can the oil feed hose be changed.......probably but I realize that it fastened BEHIND the centrifugal oil filter and is impossible to get to. In a desperate attempt I thought
but if you take of the lid on the filter it must work.......but NO!
So now my rolling project turned in to a project..........
Anybody that have an idea on how to remove the oil feed hose and/or the centrifugal filter.
Or if you have any other great ideas on how to resolve thís.....PLEASE!
HI Henrik,
I had the same issue with mine, with the oil feed and drain pipe not reaching. In the end what I did was lossen the body bolts and rotate them a little.You can see from the photo the marks showing how much i rotated the body. In my opinion the important thing is the actuator lines up and moves smoothly. I tested it with air hose. I also fitted uprated hoses see below.
Good luck
Hi Michael,
I think I managed to get the old drain pipe to fit but not the old feed pipe.
How did you manage to change the bold on the motor side for the feed pipe? As you see on my picture mine is blocked by the centrifugal filter,
I was thinking I need to loosen the whole centrifugal filter to access the bolt, hidden behind it. But that on the other hand seems like a job that can take hours.....
Along your lines I was thinking also if rotating the body a little was an option......not to eager to do that either as mine is tested and lined up with the actuator.
Thinking of a game plan but right now I´m lacking one.......
Sorry I was being a bit thick, you have to remove the centrifugal filter housing, if you are changing the feed pipe. 3 bolts hold it to the head and 2 nuts to the drain pipe. You are suposed to change the body o ring, but I didnt have one so put a tiny bit of gasket sealant on it.
Take it slow it will be fine.
Hi Michael,
thanks yes I was suspecting this after my trials.......
I´ll give that option a go tomorrow and we´ll see. I saw 2 bolts but maybe a third one is hidden behind the oil filter?
I could get the oil drain fitting (is it an o-ring) lose from the engine, using only mild force maybe I have to find a way to pull harder?
The body o-ring is that behind the centrifugal filter?
Hello Henrik,
My recommendation would be to remove the centrifugal oil filter housing and the feed hose and give the hose a good clean. As its so close to the exhaust manifold (Bad design) they can suffer from deposit build ups in the pipe. This is why I change mine. Notice I put some new heat shielding on the new pipe. The housing has 2 long and 1 short bolt into the head, one little tap with a rubber mallet and it came off. You can just see the O ring in the photo below, it lives in a recess in the head. Its the hole with the kitchen towel sticking out. Be careful with the torque of the bolts (25nm) and the oil feed (19nm) and drain hoses (25nm) only, its alloy to steel bolts. See extract from manual below. As mentioned I did not fit a gasket to the housing, non was fitted. However I did put a very thin smear of CTV sealant. Thin as I did not want any squeezing into the turbo oil system. I find this site good for diagrammes and torque settings https://www.lrworkshop.com/torque-specifications-settings/land-rover-defender-1996
Before I connected the pipes I turned the engine over with the fuel pump switched off, I put a plastic bottle on the feed pipe end and turned the engine it over a few times until I got a good feed and dont forget to add oil directly into the turbo bearing and turn it over by hand.
Good luck : )
Hi Michael,
Thanks again!! You´re a real LR Hero!
I´ll head back to the garage today and see if I can regain some of the enthusiasm again......
Think I got your points and will give it a go.
I have a new feed hose so changing make sense.
How did you disconnect the fuel pump? Is there an easy way....."for dummies"?
Not to bore you but I´ll be back with an update tonight, this is developing into the ultimate - Change a Turbo thread!
I´m sure you´ll find a good reason to visit wonderful Skåne at some point, and then the beer is waiting!
